Nov 08 2009
Chicago T-Shirt: This Quote-Unquote Poison is Quote-Unquote Bad for You
In the same week Chicago came in at number four on the list of America’s most toxic cities, we read in the Tribune that Illinois ranks dead last in school breakfast participation. Given what’s on offer, though, that might not be totally bad for the kids:
The 10-year-old boy sat grinning at the colorful cellophane wrappers piled in front of him.
Moments earlier they’d held three warm doughnuts. Now the treats were in the fifth-grader’s belly — along with 600 calories, 18 grams of fat and 36 grams of sugar.
Sure, these reduced-fat doughnuts were nutritionally fortified, but they were still doughnuts, and along with a cup of sweet juice, they made up the Chicago public school student’s entire breakfast.
This year for the first time, the Chicago Public Schools are offering free universal breakfast to nearly every student, which is happy news for those who have urged schools to expand breakfast programs. Research has shown kids learn better when their stomachs aren’t empty.
But some nutrition experts warn that the sugary processed foods city schools feed to children are setting them up for unhealthy habits and other problems.
City schools allow students to choose three items for breakfast — one of them can always be a doughnut at the schools served by the district’s main provider. Three doughnuts may be unusual, but recent visits to schools showed most students pairing them with Frosted Flakes, syrupy French toast and juice.
Chicago schools’ food service director Louise Esaian defended the breakfasts, saying: “All of the menus served in Chicago Public Schools meet the requirements established by the (U.S. Department of Agriculture). In the majority of our schools, students are offered a choice at breakfast.” She, however, did not mention that those choices include sugary pastries.
In fact, Chicago parents could be forgiven for not knowing doughnuts are ever served in school. That’s because the word doughnut never appears on any city school breakfast menu the Tribune examined. Instead, the menus say MVP Breakfast, the product’s brand name.
City school officials did not respond to questions about why they use such an unrecognizable term on the menu.
But Kimberly Schwabenbauer, dietitian and marketing manager for the manufacturer, Pittsburgh-based Super Bakery, made it clear that she doesn’t like to use the d-word when referring to her company’s product: a round, sweet, cakey pastry with a hole in the middle. When she absolutely had to say “doughnut,” she prefaced it with “quote unquote.”
Schwabenbauer, however, doesn’t take the douche cake in this story. That would go to whoever wrote this statement on behalf of CPS’s main caterer:
But city schools main caterer Chartwells-Thompson defended the brand promotion, saying in a statement that it highlights products from “all of our manufacturing partners. … Students today are more brand savvy, and we feature the brands to let our customers know that they are enjoying the same foods in school that they are familiar with and may enjoy at home.”
I think I just got a rash from reading that paragraph.















